For my five year anniversary at my company, I was granted a 5-week sabbatical which I chose to take starting towards the end of September and ending before the last week in October. I chose the timing partially based on when I thought people would be least impacted, but also because I really needed the rest. The last few years have been brutal in so many ways, and with the amount of work and the stress that comes with it, even CONvergence couldn’t really take me away from it.
The plan for this sabbatical was for Sarah and I to take a road-trip just the two of us up front to really shake us both out of the world and find an adventure — especially while the weather is still in the warm part of autumn — and then another trip with friends partway through October. For the rest of it, I intend to write and reflect, do some cleaning and organizing that’s been put off too long, and sleep as much as I want.
We really didn’t even figure out where we were going on the roadtrip until about 2 days before we left. I had never seen Colorado; I’d never been farther west than Minnesota without flying over everything in the middle to get to California. And Sarah has been talking about the Rockies for the 20+ years I’ve known her. So we decided to head that way. I let her make all the planning decisions about where we would go and how we would get there — some of that was my not knowing where to start, and some was because mountain decisions need to take weather into account and Sarah is the expert of the two of us. We almost extended the trip further to go all the way to the Grand Canyon which I have seen and she has not, but it’s currently on fire in several areas and also that was a much longer trip than we felt comfortable asking anyone to take care of our cats. So we set off south to Iowa and then west across Nebraska on an adventure.
I’m going to say it and not apologize for it — Nebraska is boring. It is FLAT flat and there’s not much alongside I-80 to look at and literally everybody drives it as fast as they can to get out of it. Other than a couple of truly weird roadside attractions, I have nothing notable about that part of the journey. We stayed overnight in North Platte, Nebraska before leaving 80 behind and turning southwest.
The land changed before we hit Colorado and honestly, I wasn’t expecting it at all. I’ve lived my whole life in places rich with forests and fields, where the dominant color is green. But this bit of the western plains was rocky, scrubby, though I wouldn’t call it barren. I’m used to dense woods of oak and pine and maple and these trees when they grew at all were small and scraggly. But it was oddly beautiful too. Even just the cattle pastures were beautiful. The grasses were colors of brown and gold and even red I’d never seen before, and I kept thinking about how strong they must be to survive here as the elevation increased and the winds bore down. The soft grasses I knew couldn’t thrive in this rocky, reddish soil, but these found life.
After a full day of a road-trip with music and conversation with Sarah and nothing else in the world but my own thoughts to trouble me, I was fully primed to be philosophical.
I was not prepared for the mountains. Stars above, I was not prepared.
At first, I didn’t know what I was looking at. Sarah knew what to look for (and of course I was driving so my focus was elsewhere) but eventually I understood that the slightly darker, blue line on the horizion was the Rockies. As we got closer though, as the plains rose and flattened and I started to see that rugged range of peaks against the sky…well. I cried. Tears ran and Sarah had to hand me a handkerchief and I’m sure I blubbered at her for a while.
(And yes, I can really cry and also drive safely. I’ve had a lot of time perfecting the talent.)
What was I feeling? Oh so many things.
I’ve seen the Catskills, driven through the Adirondacks, passed back and forth over the Appalachians several times. When you’re down in the valleys, then you really feel the mountains above and around you. But all of them kind of hide on approach. I’d never seen a place where the ground was flat and then those peaks just shot upwards in all their magnificence. They made me feel small in the way that stars make me feel small — small in the scope of the universe and grateful to be part of its fabric.
But more than that, the Rockies made me feel something I have no ability to describe. Gratitude? Relief? Safety? I have no word in my vocabulary. I looked at those stone gods sitting upon the Earth and I knew that everything would be all right. Not that my specific life would necessarily be all right. Not that our society or this country would be all right. But that these mountains were eternal, and they would preside over the land and sky no matter what happens. That life goes on, the universe goes on, and in as much as I am a part of that, nothing can really ever harm me. It was so spiritual, so profound, I could only cry for the better part of an hour.
(I had to stop writing for a while because it hit me all over again. I think I will probably cry for as long as I live thinking about the sight of them.)
I calmed down enough to focus on traffic eventually, which is good because Sarah guided us around the outer belt of Denver and south to Colorado Springs. There were several items on our agenda for this trip, but as I said before, Sarah was in charge of the schedule because part of it would be determined by weather. Her original plan had been for us to swing north to Rocky Mountain National Park and then hit Colorado Springs after, but there was snow in the park and we wouldn’t have been able to take the route she wanted. So we pivoted. Did I peek at the mountains every second it was safe to do so? You better believe I did.
In true Kelly-and-Sarah-on-a-trip fashion, we arrived in Colorado Springs and did not do the sensible thing. The sensible thing would have been to go find a hotel, get a room, get our stuff inside, and then make a plan for the rest of the day. Did we do that? No.
Because the weather was beautiful and so we drove straight up Pike’s Peak.
If you’ve never been, let me tell you. That road is not for the unwary. You have to be a damn good driver with your vehicle, up and down. You have to know how to curve slowly enough not to go over the edge or into the other lane, but fast enough to not piss off everybody else on the road. You have to know how to engine break. You MUST. You have to be totally cool with driving on a road where your car is 12 inches from a thousand foot dropoff, and where the road you are on appears to literally disappear into the sky.
Ye gods it was terrifying, exhilerating, the best kind of scary. Also I’m a badass driver and not a bit fatigued even though we’d been driving all day.
At the base of the mountain, we were in t-shirts but by the top we had to switch to sweatshirts, coats, hats, and gloves. Along the way we saw countless birds of prey, a marmot, mule deer, and a bigfoot (that one was wooden, unfortunately). We also saw the aspens starting to turn yellow and dotting the slopes with spots of bright color. We stopped going both up and down several times to take pictures and just experience the mountain, its air, its sounds.
At the top, we walked the whole area, reading all the signs and visiting the education center to learn and see everything. We’re nerds about this stuff and we always read everything in museums too. And did I cry again from the top of this mountain, looking down on the world? Well, if I did, the tears froze before any pictures were taken to prove it.
Finally we came down and picked out a hotel for the night, and I wish now I’d taken a picture of that hotel room because it was humungous. Seriously, I think it used to be 2 rooms. You could have easily fit 2 more queen beds in their and still had the couch and table and armchair and the huge desk and the kitchenette. We didn’t even ask for it!
The next day we went to Garden of the Gods. The history of it is fascinating but you can go read Wikipedia if you’re curious. It’s a place Sarah had been with her family and considered deeply spiritual, so of course I was excited. We planned for a whole day and kitted up in all our hiking stuff. We had backpacks already but for this trip Sarah got poles and we upped our emergency gear just in case — space blankets, first aid kits, compass, whistle — in addition to the usual over-preparedness of water, Gatorade, food, and layers.
I don’t think I can describe that day in detail. It was sunny and quite warm (but yay me with my super extra uber photosensitivy so I still needed long sleeves in addition to sunblock), which made for beautiful pictures. I let Sarah decide which formations we would see and what path to take, and as always, she led me on a fantastic trip. Some places were clearly marked as off limits, but others you could touch or even climb to some extent. I’ve touched trees and rocks all my life and from the very beginning I could feel what is so special to Sarah about the place. Some grand rock formations feel old, living but solemn and still somehow. These formations felt as if they buzzed with energy, as if they were as awake and alive in the sunlight as the flowers growing on them or the many, many crows upon them.
We did note the many signs about snakes and bears and such, and while we didn’t see either (thank goodness) we actually took a couple smaller, less populated trails and saw 2 or 3 separate and very recent deposits of bear poop. How do I know it was bear poop? Because the visitor’s center has a whole exhibit on the kinds of poop so you can identify it. Definitely bear poop. No I did not take a picture.
Afterwards, the heat of the day had really taken it out of us, but we kind of wanted to go elsewhere. Our plans were thwarted, however, because apparently we picked up a nail in one of the Garden parking lots and my tire was DEAD DEAD DEAD. Which led to us rapidly finding a well-reviewed tire place that was within striking distance, topping it off, and hoping we’d make it. The folks at that particular station were absolutely amazing and the fixed it in less than 30 minutes while we waited in their shop in the shade. Still, my car had had a couple of tough days so we decided to take it easy for the evening and get an early start afterwards.
Day three, we packed up and left Colorado Springs for adventures in the mountains proper. Sarah designed us a route that went west into the Rockies, then north to pass through Leadville, ultimately taking us to the western entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park so we could curve back east into Estes Park by nightfall. Over the course of several hours, we got to experience elevation changing rapidly, the temperature changing with it, and so many beautiful sights of mountains and trees and lakes and rivers.
But one place I have to talk about I don’t have a picture of and I still wish I did — Badger Basin. It’s hard to describe it even though it is absolutely locked in my memory. We emerged from a forested road that had been on the twisty side into this flat open area. It was like if you had built a sandcastle and then gently pressed your hand down right in amidst the peak of it, creating this flat spot still well above the world. Wider and flatter than a valley or canyon, it was something I had never so much as dreamed of or seen on TV before. Across, miles and miles away we could see the Collegiate Peaks, but all around us was this flat, snowy plain. We saw more mule deer or or maybe pronghorn, it was hard to tell, and bison. I looked around that landscape like a crater carved in the heart of the Rockies and I am pretty sure I could have stayed there for good. It felt like a hidden world, like I’d fallen through the wardrobe into a frigid, thin-aired paradise. Oh it was marvellous. I think if we’d stayed and I’d seen stars above it, I would never have left.
But we continued on and eventually made our way to Rocky Mountain National Park. And again, we stopped at nearly every turnoff and rest area to take pictures and lose our breath at the beauty. At the lower areas with their trees and lakes, the higher sub-alpine areas with flowers and scrubby grasses, and then again up into the clouds with snow covering the ground (and so many idiot tourists who had not prepared for the elevation). At that point, honestly, I think I was in overload. The beauty, the dramatic landscape, the majesty of it all just about killed me.
We are so blessed on this planet, y’all.
By the time we came down the mountain, it was starting to get towards sunset in Estes Park. Once again, we had not made a plan. We started thinking about finding a hotel and, when we could get signal, looked at the prices of hotels. They do NOT run cheap in Estes Park, apparently. The budget for the trip was fluid, but I still didn’t want to pay $300 to stay in a 2-star motel, so we were feeling like we might have to make other plans.
And then the lightning of inspiration struck.
Estes Park is the home of The Stanley Hotel.
Famously haunted? (More on that later.) The inspiration for Stephen King’s The Shining? A historical place with more famous visitors than you can fit in their period dining room?
At first we just rolled up to look at it from the outside, because we were here and no matter what came next we had to see it. But then I asked — what if they have a room? It would be more expensive than every other place in Estes Park, but could it be WORTH IT?
Hell yeah it could be. This was a bucket-list moment and I wasn’t about to miss it.
So we went in and asked about a room for just one night and 20 minutes later we were staying at the Stanley for the night. The desk clerk was hilarious, by the way. As he was reading off the usual hotel stuff about charges for anything damaged or stolen, etc etc etc, he added a bit about “guests may not exorcise or become possessed by any spirits for the purpose of removal. He also had a little ghosty guy sitting behind him on the cabinet where they hang the original keys for all the rooms, beautiful old brass keys neatly labeled. The ghosty was sitting in the spot with the key for 217, the room Stephen King used when writing. The clerk winked at us and moved it to our room “so the ghosts know who to visit.”
WELL. With that, we first went down into the town to find some food because goddamn lunch in Leadville had been about 20 emotional revelations ago, and then hauled all our stuff up to our room on the 3rd floor of The Stanley Hotel.
It will not shock you, if you know me at all from all this (or in real life) to know that I could not sit still while in such a place. After I’d eaten drunk a ton of water with some ibuprofen had kicked in (I was not enjoying our rapid trip through various elevations), I was ready for an adventure of my own. Sarah stayed behind, but 10pm found me wandering the halls of the Stanley. I looked at the museum in the basement, into the bar and lounge, poked around the car in the lobby, and even listened for a moment at the door where they hold a nightly seance inside, apparently.
So, here’s the thing. I am a believer in ghosts, am pretty sure I’ve experienced at least 2 in my lifetime, and am keenly sensitive about places that feel “off.” Sarah and I, when first searching for houses in 2010, nearly instantly rejected one because we walked in and both immediately knew something was very wrong and we were not wanted. I get easily scared at horror movies, have been known to suffer both sleep paralysis and night terrors, either of which can wake me in an irrational state of overwhelming fear while still seeing things, and after the (stimulating, exhausting, fulfilling, amazing) day I’d had, my mental and emotional defenses were down.
I should have been primed for a world-class ghost scare. Psychologically, I was vulnerable, highly suggestible, and fully ready to believe in an apparition or something frightening coming at me.
But that’s not what happened and that’s not what I felt.
The more I moved around the building taking pictures that night, the safer I felt. Oh, there was undoubtedly an energy about the place. It was electric like the anticipation in an arena before a concert or a sporting event. It felt like anything was possible, like anything could happen, like the universe was skipping along my heartbeat. I’ve never felt anything quite like it. But there was so much of it, it was like my cup was being filled. If there was ever a spa for the soul, it’s The Stanley.
Before I went back to the room, I actually stopped to chat with the night manager at the desk. I always talk to hotel people — they’re great and they usually have really good ideas if you have questions. I asked him if I’d missed anything in my wander that I should go see, and then mentioned how the energy felt to me and how different it was from what I had expected. After all, The Stanley Hotel is famous for inspiring one of the greatest works of horror of all time by one of the greatest authors of all time, and it has featured in no shortage of ghost hunting shows and other similar “most haunted” lists.
The night manager smiled at me and said that what I was describing is what he and most of the staff feel about it, but that most tourists come expecting scary and often they prove themselves right. I can see how that would happen. It IS a weird building, it DOES have a very strong energy to it, and if you’re thinking that tickle on your senses is dangerous, I can see how it might get to you. But I came in open, willing to be scared but feeling for what was there under the hype, and I found something really wonderful.
And when I did wake up at 3am (as I often do) and for a moment was frightened, even then I didn’t see or hear anything scary. And with a couple of breaths and a glance out the window, I was able to again feel that energy — not good or bad, not scary or safe — but just present and neutral. Giving me back whatever I put into it.
(That sign is actually what overlooks the back of The Stanley where there’s a big outdoor sitting area and it’s lit up at night and just adds to the coolness of it all.)
The next day would be our last before turning home. I could have stayed a week, but even I was prepared for the aggressive amount of healing and introspection I had been doing and I was both fully rested and fully exhausted. Also, we missed the cats and were starting to want to be someplace we could flop again. So we set out from Estes Park for Fort Collins, CO where Sarah had found a place for us to hike. We are not great hikers — we are slightly ambitious walkers. We both knew if we were going to attempt any kind of wildnerness walking, we needed to be at a lower elevation and with a less challenging terrain.
There’s a city park (maybe) that overlooks the reservoir and the city of Fort Collins that perfectly fit the bill. It had a ton of trails, some of which were kind of off-road climbs at points, but all doable and with plenty to see. The cool thing about this park was that the ground was heavily saturated with pyrite, fool’s gold, so all the rocks just sparkled. It was like hiking on a trail recently dusted with glitter.
Nothing particularly exciting happened on the trail, which is how you want it to go. But the sky was so clear and blue as it had been for our whole trip, and although it lacked the drama and absolute splendor of Garden of the Gods or Rocky Mountain National Park, it was still breathtaking in a more humble way. The red soil, the blue sky and reservoir, the golden grasses and green trees, all magical in their own way. We had also spent the whole trip with Sarah’s app that analyzes birdsong open, recording every one we heard. She has the list somewhere. It was another moment of wonder to realize how many birds we share in Minnesota with these great landscapes, even though they are different enough that they could be on opposite sides of the world.
Anyway, after the hike, we took off north from Fort Collins to catch up to I-80 and once again head home. It was actually easier to swing through Wyoming and join 80 at Cheyenne, so we got to see yet another unexpected landscape. Although, sadly, I was not moved by Wyoming. It was mostly just dirt and pronghorns (I did like them). Flatter than flat flat flat and more barren than Nebraska, I’m sure there are lovely things somewhere but I didn’t get to see them. We stopped at the same hotel in North Platte, NE on the way home, and then made it back the following day safely.
I’m so glad I took so many pictures (I have literal hundreds more) because they help me recapture the feeling of those moments and days. The overwhelming emotion of seeing the mountains for the first time, the beauty of the ecosystem and the thrill of those winding roads, the spiritual warmth of rock formations, the otherworldly energy of The Stanley. They’re still with me, and still changing me, I think.
Along the way on this journey, we learned about how the Rockies were formed, well, as much as science has figured out anyway. We don’t quite know why they formed when they did — something to do with techtonics and a western plate slipping under the North American plate — but we know that the current Rocky Mountains are actually the second to rise in that same place. When you look at the gray rocks on top of Pike’s Peak or in this picture below, those are the bones of the first set of mountains, called the Ancestral Rocky Mountains. They were formed first out of Precambrian rock and rose over the Western Interior Seaway when most of North America was split by an inland sea. Then they crumbled away by the end of the Mesozoic period, only to rise a second time as new mountains pushing up through the rocks of their ancient ancestors.
When I first saw the Rockies on the way to Colorado, I was overwhelmed by feelings, by the spiritual certainty that comes with a sense of forever that extends past any one human life. To learn partway through that the Rockies that so moved me are not eternal, and in fact aren’t even the original, didn’t daunt me at all. If anything, it proved my feelings correct. The world turns, continents clash, mountains rise and fall and rise again. The rocks remain and they remember. They carry the story of all those ages and changes with them as the rise and fall. Maybe this one mountain isn’t forever, but mountains are forever. Life is forever. Change is forever.
And it also fed deeply into my sense of hope. Because if a literal mountain can rise out of the ashes of its former life like a phoenix, then anything is possible. No matter the challenge ahead, no matter the scale of the weight upon me, I can rise too. I can rise and touch the sky and be for that one moment eternal.
Sometimes you touch places and sometimes they touch you. Sometimes you change places and sometimes they change you. And sometimes they take you away and sometimes they bring you home. This trip did all of that for me.
This song never used to make me cry but it sure as shit does now with all I’ve seen and felt:
He was born in the summer of his 27th year
Comin’ home to a place he’d never been before
He left yesterday behind him, you might say he was born again
You might say he found a key for every door
When he first came to the mountains, his life was far away
On the road and hangin’ by a song
But the string’s already broken and he doesn’t really care
It keeps changin’ fast and it don’t last for long
But the Colorado Rocky Mountain high
I’ve seen it rainin’ fire in the sky
The shadow from the starlight is softer than a lullaby
Rocky Mountain high


























































